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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.